Portlandia: Silk by Pho Van

I just got back from my one millionth meal at Silk by Pho Van (formerly known as the much less pretentious Pho Van). What can I say? Although I hate the new name (what, praytell, was wrong with the old one?), the food remains fabulous, perhaps even better because they now offer a full bar, lavishly done up in the Portland modern stylee, and, wait for it . . . Happy Hour! Yes, that fine Portland tradition where you can get great food for small prices has come to Silk by Pho Van, and unlike some of the other Happy Hours in this city, the menu is pretty much exactly like the main dining room, but at a fraction of the price. Yes, an upscale Pearl favorite offers a lovely Happy Hour menu without a burger in sight.

A few of my personal favorites: the Petit Banh Mi starter, normally around $8, at HH, just $3. This is a toasted slice of French Baguette, topped with Mayo, grilled pork, spinach, carrots, peanuts and green onion. Tasty and delicious! Or the noodles (which are like Vietnamese pad Thai), normally around $12, at HH, just $5. Or the yellow chicken curry with yams and (new addition!) eggplant - possibly one of the best curries in the world, and only $6 at HH (normally $19 and made with duck). The spring rolls we had were a little chewy for my taste, and a little heavy on the mint, but the fried imperial rolls are usually kick ass and greasy, in the best kind of way, of course.

There is a one drink minimum at HH, and I recommend the "Up All Night" which is a Vietnamese iced coffee blended with kamora, espresso vodka, topped with whipped cream and a cherry like an alcoholic coffee milkshake ($7). You can also order the regular Thai iced coffees, which are great, or the limeade, which is superior, especially on a hot summer evening. HH goes from 3:30pm to 6:30pm, but get there before 6 to be sure you'll get a seat before time runs out.

If you miss the Happy Hour, the food is still available, but for quite a bit more. Although the yellow curry is so good, it might even be worth the $19 (but I still prefer the chicken, which you can get for a bit less, if you ask nicely). The side of grilled eggplant slices are so delicious, and for only $5, a steal, and the banana blossom salad is a citrusy, crunchy summery treat.

Hungry yet?